Long cranking time One of the first symptoms commonly associated with a bad or failing cylinder head temperature sensor is a a. My new one shows ~2. Remove the hair pin clip and clevis pin at the top end of the cylinder and remove the cylinder. I bought this truck brand new from a dealer so no engine swaps. The cylinder head temperature sensor is an electronic engine management sensor found on many modern vehicles today. Note that, despite the instructions, you do not need to remove the upper intake from the lower.
On the two I saw, the connection was very corroded. The sensor is behind the grill on the top and towards the driver side. It only has one wire go … ing to it. You will see it and it seems like easy access but I had no wrench that could access it forget sockets. This allows all cylinders to cool. Installation is the reverse of these steps.
It will have a two wire plug. Doesn't look like spark is getting to them properly. I took a long handled screwdriver and partially pried up the spring retainer. The cylinder head temperature sensor is an important engine management sensor as the signal it provides is a critical one to engine calculations. Remove the grommet from the air cleaner housing and slide the grommet down the hardness. Sounds like yours failed at the other end of the scale i.
Loosen the reservoir filler plug and operate the top assembly two or three times to bleed any air from the system. I measure the Ohms of the old sensor and it's 2. For a couple of bucks you can pick up a pack of resistors, read the color code on the back of the package and be in business. Operate the top to the fully raised position. If the temperature exceeds 154 °C 310°F , the disables all of the fuel injectors until the engine temperature drops below 154°C 310°F. The two wire cable will have a connector near the number one spark plug.
If the temperature exceeds 154 °C 310°F , the disables all of the fuel injectors until the engine temperature drops below 154°C 310°F. Unless you get lucky, and it happens to fail when you test it. All you have to do to get to it is pull the inake tube, alternator, and with a bent or adjustable end 18mm wrench you can pull it. The new one registers correct ohms based on engine temperature. If the computer detects an issue with the coolant temperature sensor signal or circuit, it will set off the Check Engine Light in order to alert the driver of the problem. I have done that on my 2001 Supercrew and that solved my temperature sensor problems since mine was gi … ving the wrong temp and since our winters up here in the North East are harsh on those parts. It is under the intake on the drivers side head, directly behind the alternator.
The sensor was bad, I tested it with a multimeter before taking it out and it read 1 regardless of engine temperature. Disconnect the plug the hydraulic lines at the upper and lower ends of the cylinder. I found the what I believe is the cylinder temp sensor by the alt. If the temperature exceeds 126°C -258°F , the disables four fuel injectors at a time. Once you find where the two wire cable ends then take the connector off the sensor and try to clean both sides. The headlight module may now be gently pulled toward the front of the vehicle.
If voltage is not within specification, the sensor may be faulty. Engine temperature was not stabilized. The will alternate which four injectors are disabled every 32 engine cycles. The increased current is measured by the voltage in the circuit, as current increases, voltage increases. Obviously a professional scan tool is always the place to start.
Have a pig tail connector and look like a loop with a probe inside of it once you unthread it. If the temperature exceeds 126°C -258°F , the disables four fuel injectors at a time. So far I have been told to burd the coolent system. It might be something for you to consider. Also, my cold start idle is above 1000 for the first time, it had always been the same as warm idle, around 800. No more stalling, surging, hesitating or hard starts.
Most of the time the problem is the connection between the two wire cable and the connector. All you have to do to get to it is pull the inake tube, alternator, and with a bent or adjustable end 18mm wrench you can pull it. It may also cause some engine knock when hitting the gas from a standstill due to the timing retard caused by the artificial cold temperature. That way you'll be ready for any conditions. We also have collections such as wiring diagrams, fuse boxes, engine diagrams, circuit diagrams, engine problems, engine schematics, parts diagrams, replacement parts, electrical diagrams, repair manuals, transmission diagrams etc.