It apparently activates a slightly different software program module to minimise these cyclically changes. I was told by the dealer that the seal in question has not been updated and that failure of the seal will likely take place again in the future. I really appreciate that you guys are taking the time to answer questions for me. Just got back from a Cottman Transmission, his Snap On scanner he had was not able to hook into the trans but was able to into the motor ecu. Trans shop says likely the torque converter lock up clutch has worn out.
Does it require an entire trans rebuild? If there is a big jump in engine speed, there is no lock-up. So there's a small price to pay, but the benefit far outweighs this additional point of failure. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. Other Signs of a Bad Torque Converter Trouble with a torque converter can show up in other forms. On stock setups, that means 3rd and 4th gear only if certain conditions are met. Can anyone tell me at what speed the converter is supposed to lock? Your transmission can take a heck of a beating over the years and it is one of the most neglected service areas on a car.
Lock-up piston operation will then be controlled. See si 24 03 06 dated February 2008. I'm not racing the car, but I am trying to understand what the torque converter is doing. To illustrate this by taking the extreme, if there were no frictional losses at all a car of any weight could cruise at a constant speed on a flat road forever without burning a drop of fuel. Replacement of the torque converter is expensive. The problem causes the check engine light, which prevents me from obtaining a clear smog test on my car to register it.
The 3rd possibility is that there is something wrong with my tranny. It only happens under those specific throttle behaviors and speed range. Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx, took it out for more diagnostic driving time, and could not reproduce the problem. Parasitic losses are greater because by the nature of it you lose power as the clutches aren't coupled and not being as efficient as possible. All pictures and references to the Porsche name, and the car names and shapes are for restoration reference only, and do not imply any association with Porsche. Make sure to check your owner's manual for the brand of fluid specific to your make and model. An extra 100 lbs in the drivetrain will affect acceleration, but once at constant speed on the straight and level, the only factors in the equation for efficiency are frictional losses.
It won't hurt anything else or cause further long term wear? Do I have any options? I cannot agree with Jim. At around 85,000, sometime in mid-July 2006, I began to have an intermittent on for maybe 300-500 miles, then off for around 7000 to 10000 miles check engine light. Why do you feel the lock up clutch is not locking up? I've driven econo boxes that achieve this at 45 mph! Add to this that continued use of the vehicle will likely result in transmission damage since the tcc lockup clutch is slipping resulting in debris building up in the fluid. Then step on the gas pedal gently, revving the engine twice. Please join the Roadfly Facebook Group where members will be more than happy to answer your questions and provide help.
Let the auto warm up for 4-5 minutes. Seems to be worth the money to give it a shot to me. I doubt it, from an efficiency standpoint -- at least in straightline, level cruising. From what I remember the converter can stay locked up while shifting. Given idendical gear rations which the e46 doesn't have anyway? Also, what are other owners experience in this matter? Torque lock up means the tranny is at max efficiency 0 slippage cin drive train. I appreciate any positive input you might have.
Also, what are other owners experience in this matter? Checked my 325i on the way home from work today. After lockup, I would think the extra 100 pounds of weight would be the bigger factor than the fact that you have to move more gears in the transmission but I'm not an expert so I could be wrong. I drove the car home some 10 miles and have not notice any of the prior symptoms. Like I said on older cars, it adjusts that ratio if you were in overdrive for example continuously, until you reach lockup. Your mpg drop seems typical of an o2 sensor failure. I second Brandon's comment that you should tune up your car in general to see if anything's wrong.
I am still driving with the problem. No petitions, requests for funding. Of course, right after I bought my slushbox, I discovered there is a vanpool I can take to work everyday which gets me in the carpool lane. And I did it backwards. Listen for the aforementioned clacking or whirring sounds.
The maximum speed is 60 mph. In other words, a different flash for the same exact car can cause different behavior. Here's a for the newbie not saying you are -- others reading might be totally new to these concepts to give a good basic overview of the magic that takes place in automatic transmissions. But Sport mode helps too. Browse our online catalog and. Consult authorized factory manuals when performing repair procedures. The engine will drone, but you'll accelerate quicker.
I'm pretty sure all this is electronically controlled. At 153k, I wouldn't take the risk of doing all that work twice. I have a busy weekend but hope to get it done before Thursday when we leave for Tennessee. But, now you know the truth eh? There is no warning, just an expiring gearbox with no drive. The vehicle only has 107k on it however, doesn't seem to have any misfire or transmission issues while driving. What you will find is that you can drive around the problem by using Sport or manual modes. Did you just use one tube? This will lead to sporadic engagement and ultimately to complete failure.