Remove the transmission neutral safety switch wiring, main electrical harness, transmission cooler lines, shift linkage, and disconnect any clips or brackets which may be mounted to the transmission. All the other bolts have come off with no issues so far. After trial and error, here are the best steps I think to remove the 4L60E automatic transmission from my 97 K1500 Z71. Remove the 15mm bolt I tapped my ratchet with a hammer and was able to get the bolt to spin without the having to block the flywheel. Support the transmission with a transmission jack. After checking the dipstick tube from the replacement transmission, it seems like it is bolted down somwehere behind the gine, but I can't see where.
I'd be happy to take pics if you guys want, I seem to be the only one attempting to put in a trans myself so let me know if you'd like pics. Blow air into the line that joins the top of the radiator so gravity can assist in removing any contaminants that might remain from the previous trans problems. Slide the transmission straight onto the locating pins while lining up the marks on the flywheel and the torque converter. Total time is probably about 6-8 hours for a first timer that is mechanically skilled. Over the years the two vehicles have been engaged in a performance and horsepower war. It would have helped had I measured and lifted the truck high enough to to get the trans jack with the trans on it out from under it.
Tip the back of the transmission down to allow access to the top bellhousing bolts. Remove the 1 passenger side connector to the computer by pinching together on the fore and aft part of the connector and lifting up it's behind where the heat shield was. Install the rear propeller shaft. I did not look at the the filter before putting the pan back on but will inspect it as soon as I have it off. Drain the transfer case if equipped. Support the transmission with a transmission jack. I didn't take a closer look yet but I think there is just enough space behind the engine to unbolt the dipstick tube with a wrench.
The exhaust you should take off completely this way you can pivot the engine back to get to the upper transmission bolts and see the bolt of the dipstick. Before removing the bolts and straps completely, I placed a jack under the rear of the driveshaft. If possible you should try to space out the steps, or maybe play with font to make it a little easier on the eyes? Make sure all electrical harnesses, hoses, and brackets are removed and clear of the transmission. At this point, Im thinking I may be able to remove the tube, along with other hard to reach connectors, once the transmission is unbolted from the engine. Other upgrade on the Z28 included a performance suspension, performance rear axle and a performance 4L60E transmission. Aside from that, every bolt came off very easy except the transfer case rubber mount, the bolt on that I need to inspect because it took a breaker bar to get it all the way off. The 1995 Camaro was built during the second year of production of the fourth generation Camaro.
Remove the visible torque converter bolt. Refer to Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test. Remove the stud and the bolt securing the transmission to the engine. Looks pretty good man, props for the write up. The torque converter must rotate freely by hand. Mine took longer 3 days as I didn't have these instructions to start, had to backtrack some steps, the service manual steps are vague.
Remove the transmission pan 13mm bolts starting at one corner. The three remaining bolts came out with no issues. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler pipes from the transmission. Use a thin pry bar to loosen the transmission from the engine, since it will frequently be stuck to the mounting dowels. First find thesource of the leak and see if it can be repaired with the trans in the truck. Make alignment marks on the flywheel and the torque converter.
Since I have never seen a damaged torque converter, I will assume it is fine until I am able to remove it. Remove the starter from the engine and remove the stamped steel closure ring surrounding the starter opening. Disconnect the 3 o2 sensor connectors. Awesome Yea after I put the new one back on I made sure it spun on there all the way. I have a new rubber gasket thing for it that is already in the trans, Should I put it on the tube first, or just insert the tube into it? It could also be found in the. Put dielectric grease into the connectors before reconnecting. Keep at least two bolts along the side of the transmission installed loosely to guide the transmission off the dowels.
I've heard there is something I can buy to put on the flywheel like an oil filter wrench to help but I'm not sure. Once tension is relaxed from both torsion bars, remove the cross member and slide the bars from their sockets at both ends. I was able to loosen the stripped bolt with the 12 extractor, which threw me off because I thought it would the the 11. So I decided to try the 12 socket and it come out just fine. So I'm in the process of taking my transmission out, and I had a pdf on how it's supposed to come out but now I can't find it. I finally jacked up the car a couple weekends ago, started the car, put the transmission in various gears and checked to see what happened.
This is my first transmission so I am taking my sweet time about it while documenting everything. I wasted 4 hours trying to remove the dipstick tube at the point the service manual said by fiddling with the stud from the top. If you had put it in and it would have been right on the flywheel, more than likely it isn't seated right, usually causing the pump to fail. Chock tires, raise and support vehicle with at least 19 inches of clearance. I try to turn the bolt on the flywheel and the whole assembly turns on me?? Remove the transfer case, if equipped. I'm removing the whole transmission anyway so this seemed like a better place for this step. Remove the six studs and one bolt securing the transmission to the engine.