So if you're inspired in building your own car and want to learn more about how to do it in best way, don't hesitate and read build source page so you can learn something new and if something is not clear you can always ask builder some questions about the build. The shop manuels are your best bet, thats after Stangnet of course! Plus, the monetary value of not being one of the herd is difficult to valuate, and often underestimated. The Scott Drake Challenger cap looks nice and is a good piece but the base isn't flat. Black on the interior makes life easy since I can use krylon paint for plastic on existing parts and save some serious money on the restoration. Using a square to transfer the area of the inner rocker to be trimmed and for tabs was as simple as lining up the front of the tube and transferring the mark on the part. If you have more room the same version of the cap is offered for a Jeep but it is much larger.
I had kinda eyeballed the location of the table to the car under the lift and semi leveled it. The fit between the two parts was just what I needed to solve my previous issue of slop. I sorted the parts, as the old chap had mixed in numerous Mach I and other 1969 and 1970 parts. I don't mind though, I actually really enjoy restoring old cars. Floorboard is now ready for padding and carpet.
These cars were never as straight as every one thinks they were so using a laser level should make them better than they were new. For those that don't remember my last muscle car restoration, it was a numbers matching S code 1969 mustang coupe. Just have to talk to the paint shop sherwin williams auto and see what they say about mixing and shooting silver metallic. This lightened the load a little so I could flip it over to get to the underside. Over the past 2 years, I have been sorting and refinishing parts, and this week, had my friend at LatoRacing forum member come out and get the car to sort out the sheet metal work that needs to be done. The vehicle originally had a vinyl top, and the time spent exposed to the elements has lead to moisture accumulating, which has left the metal of the top rusted through in places. I would accept reasonable offers on either.
. To keep cost down, I am re-using the pony emblems, aluminum accent panels and the original door lights. It is giving me great ideas but, I still want something that shows me year specific task. I needed to see how the torque box was going to align due to this fact. Getting one piece floor and misc. So, here is some of the history on the car. I bought an Eastwood fender roller and rolled the lip of the front fender up making an almost C shape.
It is going to need some clamping in order to be dimensionally correct, but will work nicely. The good news is now I have a full on project. In the rusty areas I spot primed with high zinc primer and the bare metal areas got self-etching primer. When I originally restored the car some parts weren't available like full quarters and I was never happy with my panel fit and gaps. I was able to get some work done after Christmas and in-between family get-togethers. The trim codes list didn't go beyond 1970 so I couldn't tell what the colors should be.
The factory steel bumper had such a large gap that it was much more forgiving in its fitting both years than these flush mount bumpers are. This one looks to be in fairly decent shape as far as rust goes. Initially I was going to repair the car and go just a few steps further but that snowballed quickly! I dont care even if its a rusty piece of junk. I hope you have the rebuild thread here on iboats. I did find the Ferrari parts. Sure beats the old style they had! Looking at some 4 links right now, trying to decide what to do. To do this I lifted the boat off the cradel and set it on blocking and jack stands.
I haven't decided if I want to keep the gauge bezels the pearl orange body color or do something different this time around. All bent up and twists all over it. I have enjoyed the car through the years until I got rear ended in the spring of 2015. I think she thought I was joking. I chose an Anvil fiberglass one for mine as it lent itself better to a 1970 model.
I also added a bracket to the front to bolt the drop down wheel too. All these measurements were taken on the driver's side, without any type of reinforcement. And I would sooner restore an obscure 4-door Rambler than a been-there-done-that-for-a-dollar Camaro any day. The section on interiors also fails to show photos or diagrams beyond 1970. The low cost of entry for a Hardtop means one can find a better starting point in terms of both condition and equipment.
As I do not want this car to fall off of this fixture, the mounts are welded to the bottom of the frame rail, hopefully out of the way of the upcoming driver's side torque box. How is your car coming? So far, so good I bought the Bosch self leveling laser from Home Depot for my conversions it has a magnetic base ,the good thing is if you bump or jiggle it , it will re set its self. I will get the vert rolled in place and remove some pieces and get to work. To accomplish this I cut up some 3 inch c channel. There was not enough clearance at the back frame channel for the rudder and drive shaft. Certainly, the price seems to be quite reasonable, even if the new owner was only going to use it as a parts car. Interior was coated with dust but complete.